I have been to Iloilo several
times which I consider it as my second home province since my father is a pure
bred Ilonggo but I never had a chance to fully explore this underrated province
when it comes to tourism purposes. Most people would think that Iloilo is a
province for commerce, business, agricultural and industrial development. Only
a few people would think that it is a province for tourist to explore. Often,
people that would do their vacation there because it is either that is their
home province or they have relatives living there just like what we normally do
in my several trips to Iloilo.
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| One of the fame landmarks of Iloilo - Molo Church |
Four years ago, my family
visited Iloilo but we only made it as our jump point to visit our main trip
destination which is Boracay. But four years after, I realized that it is time
to return to Iloilo as it is emerging as home of exciting places, cuisines and
adventures that can be ideal for travel vacation. Iloilo is just waiting for my
feet to discover it.
It was a moment of excitement
for my return to Iloilo after four years! I’m returning to the province to
explore its wonderful sights, places and cuisines which I did not enjoyed in my
previous trips there. My family usually stays at my grandmother’s house in
Pototan whenever we visit them. So my latest visit to Iloilo is really
something memorable.
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| First glance of Iloilo province in the air... |
I also decided to explore
Iloilo because it is often out of tourist radar when it comes to visiting
Western Visayas region in the country as most are bound to the popular Boracay
of Aklan province which is also in the region. Like I said, many visitors would
think that it a province of commerce, businesses or agriculture and would just
make it as an alternative gateway to the popular tourist island of Boracay. Its
underrated status attracted me to prove that there’s more in Iloilo aside from
that. And that is to prove that it is also an ideal place for travel trips and
adventure!
Iloilo City is the jump point
to explore Iloilo province. The city is a historical city rich in culture and
heritages. I think this is the core of the province’s history and economic
progress where most of the financial centers, businesses and establishments are
located. In Iloilo City alone, I get to experience the rich heritage of Western
Visayas when it comes to history, sights and culture of Ilonggo people. The
city has wide choices of mass transportation to explore it. From buses,
jeepneys, taxis, tricycles up to pedicabs, I tried it all just to discover Iloilo
City’s sights and cuisines.
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| Welcome back to Iloilo after 4 years! |
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| An grand ad welcome at Iloilo Airport. |
And though, it is a city, it’s
still has a relaxing pace without the rush hour mode of a usual city. It may
not have rising tower buildings of a standard city, mushroom blocks of
buildings or financial centres yet Iloilo City has
an idyllic atmosphere that is simply enjoyable and
charming. Actually, the Ilonggo’s are part of that idyllic atmosphere of
the city. They are generally helpful, cheerful and friendly. People in the city
are not always in rush or in a hurry but not very slow as well. They just take
their time in doing things. And if visitors ask for a help, Ilonggo’s don’t
hesitate to lend a help especially when I inquire about directions and correct
public vehicles to ride in the city and going to a sight I want to visit. My
good experiences with them made my stay in the province more enjoyable.
It was 11 in the morning when
we reached SM City Iloilo in Mandurriao district from the airport in Santa
Barbara. It was a good thing that prior to my arrival I pre-arranges to meet my
Iloilo resident aunt who will accompany us for this trip with my sister and
cousin. When we met at SM City Iloilo we engaged into an almost never-ending
conversation since I haven’t seen my aunt for a long time. While we continue
our conversation and stories, I and my travel companions decided to take a
lunch first to have energy before exploring the city.
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| The facade of Jaro Church. |
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| Jaro Belfry just across the church. |
Even though it was one hot
afternoon, I proceeded with the exploration of Iloilo City. We started off with
one of the famous religious landmark that is near in Mandurriao – Jaro Church, also known as Jaro
Cathedral or Church of St. Elizabeth of Hungary. It was built in 1864, the year the Jaro district
was named a diocese by Pope Pius the IX, by order of His Grace Mariano
Cuartero, first bishop of Jaro. The cathedral’s style is basically Baroque,
with the addition of Gothic elements over many renovations.
As I approach Jaro Cathedral,
I can’t help but noticed the church’s belfry located on the plaza park on the opposite
street across the church. I can clearly observe how old the ruins were dating
back through the Spanish colonization period. I learned that Jaro Belfry is one
of the few belfries in the country that stands apart from the church. It was
ruined by 1948 earthquake and restored by the Iloilo City Government during the
last decade of the 1900s. Though, it’s built is already old, the ruin still
looks sturdy and hard. Its location makes a unique landmark within the Jaro
plaza park with its towering height that attracts any Jaro district visitor.
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| The interior of "masculine church" - Jaro Cathdral. |
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| Mother and child: Jaro Church entrance door with the opposite view of Jaro Belfry across the street. |
Inside Jaro Catherdral, I
quickly noticed the grand designed of the altar line up with male saints which
dubbed the cathedral as a “masculine church.” The main altar is hanged with an
elaborately designed chandelier. And at the centrepiece of the altar is an
image of Nuestra Senore de la Candelaria (Our Lady of the Candles) with the
painting of Jesus and Mary’s sacred immaculate heart hanged on the walls of both
sides. The narrow ceiling painted in light blue jives with the dominant light
yellow paint of the columns and walls with accents of green and white color as
well. I looked back at the main entrance area where I noticed the colourful
prayer candles on the stands that have caught my attention. And I think each
color of these prayer candles is of different prayer purposes. All I know pink
is for love life and blue is for career.
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| Colorful prayer candles for Our Lady of the Candles. |
Jaro Cathedral is grand as it
is but it serves its purpose – a solemn place to pray and communicate with the
divine creator. The church is one of the great landmarks of the city and much
more of the district of Jaro. Don’t forget to leave Jaro without dropping by at
a branch of
Bischocho’s Haus. The
food shop and “pasalubong” store are a great way to sample unique Ilonggo
delicacies like
barquillos (local
wafer),
pinasugbo (banana brittle),
piyaya (flat unleavened bread filled with mozcovado
(raw) sugar) and
biscocho (buttered
toasted bread and some with dry sweet condensed milk filled topping), of
course!
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| Museo Iloilo - a great place to start your Iloilo exploration trip. |
We took a jeepney to Bonifacio
Drive to the province’s repository of cultural heritage - Museo Iloilo. A visit to this prime museum of the city leads us to
experiencing being bought back century years ago. Inside were exhibits of
scientifically-dated fossils, shells, rocks, native potteries and tools that indicate
the arrival of civilization and age of Panay Island. Also inside the museum
were local artifacts, religious images and antique relics and jewelries preserved
from the Spanish period of colonization. One of the delightful sections of Museo
Iloilo is the art gallery section where contemporary art paintings by Ilonggo
artists are on display. The painting viewing was a great addition to the museum
but I wished the curator or the city government would expand the museum to give
more room for more historical artifacts and include a cover of the whole
heritage of Western Visayas inside the museum.
I’ve learned that Museo Iloilo
is the first gov’t sponsored museum outside Metro Manila and was designed by
Ilongo architect Sergio Penasales. Museo Iloilo’s permanent exhibit covers the
cultural history of Western Visayas from prehistory to contemporary history.
Museo Iloilo is found in Bonifacio Drive, just beside the Iloilo Provincial
Capitol and the Department of Tourism Regional Office.
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| Inside the repository of Iloilo's rich history, culture and heritage - Museo Iloilo. |
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| Art gallery section of Museo Iloilo. |
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| One of the untitled art inside Museo Iloilo. |
The sun is scorching hot so we
decided to take a taxi to Molo district to visit another Iloilo’s religious
landmark,
Molo Church.
The church is one of the most familiar
landmarks of Iloilo and Molo district. Built in 1831, the church exudes a
blatant expression of Gothic-Renaissance architecture while interior is a
fusion of Gothic and Romanesque architectures. The Spires of Molo are yet the
most interesting colonial “skyscrapers” in Iloilo City aside from the
neoclassic Belfry of Jaro.
The church is distinctly
characterized with gray-black covering walled bricks with imposing two bell
towers with pointed roofs. Inside the church were predominantly white painted
walls, columns and ceilings with grey color accents. I also noticed the 16
women saint images adorned the lining hall of the church towards the altar. This
has made the church dubbed as a “feminine chruch” opposite of Jaro Church as a
masculine church. The altar of Molo
Church is grandly lit with gold ornaments and designs with various images where
the centerpiece in the retablo is the image of Sta. Ana, the patron saint of
Molo.. After only a few minutes of stay in the church, me and my travel
companions decided to leave the church as there is a mass is on-going inside.
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| The beholding facade of Molo Church. |
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| Molo Chruch's elegant interiors. |
From Molo, I don’t have a clue
on how to easily reach Miag-ao, our next destination. So we decided to take a
jeepney bound to “Super” where there is a San Joaquin bound jeepneys to take
that will pass through the municipality of Miag-ao. Our goal in visiting that
municipality is to visit the fame
Miag-ao
Church because of its UNESCO
World Heritage Site status and being probably
the most famous church in the whole province of Iloilo. The municipality of
Miag-ao and its church is 45 minutes away from the city so be ready to endure a
long jeepney ride going here and make sure to visit it first in your Iloilo
itinerary trip.
Miag-ao Church is the most
beautiful church I have been in Iloilo. This is probably its unique
architectural character and exquisite bas-relief that depicts images of
ordinary life of Filipinos during the country’s Spanish colonization period. Constructed
more than two hundred years ago in the year 1797, the Miag-ao Church stands as
a living legacy of the culture and way of life of the people of Miag-ao
centuries ago. The artistic facade of the church is decorated with a relief
sculpture of St. Christopher carrying the Christ child amidst coconut, papaya
and guava shrubs. A large stone image of St. Thomas of Villanueva, parish
patron saint, dominates the center. Carved life-size statues of the Pope and
St. Henry with their coat-of-arms above them flank the main entrance.
Supporting the facade are the twin belfries, one towering two-storeys and the
other three-storeys high.
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| Miag-ao Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. |
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| The side area of Miag-ao Church. |
Unfortunately during our
visit, Miag-ao Church is closed. So I haven’t fully appreciated its inside
façade. But I learned that the interior of the church is highlighted by a
striking gold-plated retablo. We just explore the outside grounds and façade of
the famed church and left right away as we have a boat ride to catch.
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| Souvenir photo with the famous church of Iloilo province. |
When in Iloilo, don’t miss to
try Iloilo’s culinary pride and must-try cuisine, the La Paz Batchoy. A local noodle dish made of scissored noodles and
pork innards simmered in both is perfect either for afternoon merienda or
breakfast treat. I was able to try a bowl of La Paz Batchoy at Ted’s La Paz
Batchoy branch in Robinson’s Place Iloilo mall before we enroute to Concepcion.
Eating a bowl of La Paz Batchoy is like eating a whole bowl of Iloilo cuisine!
It was heavenly delicious with all the spices, broth and meat flavour! Just
take cautioned and moderately in eating La Paz Batchoy because of it has high
cholesterol content.
While I was in Guimaras, I got
a sample of Pancit Molo, a soup with
spiced pork and chicken meatballs daintily wrapped in thin dough, boiled in
chicken–pork broth. It is also another must-try cuisine when in Iloilo which I
surprisingly like it on my first taste! You’ll appreciate the deliciousness of
the soup when served warm. Both Ilonggo dishes are also served in other
specialty restaurants around Iloilo City.
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| La Paz Batchoy: Namit gid! |
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| Puto: perfect partner for La Paz Batchoy! |
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| Around Iloilo City. |
If you still have time, you
can insert in your “Explore Iloilo” itinerary trip, other must-do and must
visit in the province. A side trip to Igabaras to explore
Nadsadjan Falls via two hour trip and trek is a good sidetrip when
in Iloilo or exploring other landmark churches of the city like
San Joaquin Church and
Guimbal Church. Located in Arevalo
district,
Villa Beach is a good
option for seafood dining with its row of retaurants offering affordable and
fresh seafoods. A fun night out in the city can be found in Smallville. It is a
popular dining and nightlife complex located in Mandurriao district where
visitors can go to eat, drink, and bar hop in Iloilo.
One of best time to visit the
province is probably during its fame Dinagyang and Paraw Regatta Festival. Dinagyang Festival is one of the
grandest fiestas in the province and in the country that is held both to honor
the Santo Nino and to celebrate the arrival on Panay of Malay settlers and the
subsequent selling of the island to them by the Atis. The festival is Ilonggo’s
pride for showcasing its rich culture and heritage. While Paraw Regatta Festival is a race of colourful sailboats called Paraws in the straits between Guimaras
Island and the city of Iloilo held every third weekend of February.
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| Iloilo - heart of the Philippines! |
It was indeed four years has
passed since my visit to the province. Yet, Iloilo did not change and remain
idyllic and charming with friendly Ilonggos that made my stay enjoyable and
comfortable. I enjoy exploring Iloilo and glad to prove that there’s more to
this underrated province when it comes to places and sights to visit. I am also
glad to discover and explore the historical Iloilo City that uniquely offers
Ilonggo’s rich heritage, culture and daily life. A four year return is indeed
worthy! I experience the best of Western Visayas first in Iloilo – the heart of
the Philippines!
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Experience Western Visayas first in Iloilo is a part of my Iloilo blog series of the same title where I share my travel experiences in exploring Iloilo City after 4 years since my previous visit last July 9-11, 2012. Some information are credited to
Exlopre Iloilo - one of my guide and information source for this Iloilo trip.
